Exploring cool climate Chardonnay one sip at a time

As the summer heat rolled into Niagara this past weekend, the coolest school on record welcomed wine enthusiasts to test their taste buds.

Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI) helped to kick-off the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C) with the signature School of Cool lecture sessions and tastings on Thursday, July 18.

Offering three flights of eight Chardonnays from across three continents, the School of Cool provided guests the chance to not only enhance their palates but also engage in technical discussion, lively debate and a reunion of industry professionals. CCOVI helped to develop the annual educational opportunity as part of the i4C’s Education Committee.

The event began with an opening keynote address from Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann, who discussed the nature of wine and highlighted Canada’s Chardonnay innovations for the nearly 300 attendees. Anthony Hamilton Russell, of Hamilton Russell Vineyards of South Africa, then took to the stage to lead the first flight and panel: “The only constant is change.”

Exploring the most pressing issues threatening high-quality Chardonnay production, attendees were invited to taste a selection of Chardonnays that had to navigate and adapt to climatic barriers, such as early spring frost, polar vortex, rain, weather variability and more. Meanwhile, the panel shared thoughts on creating outstanding vintages in the face of a dramatically shifting climate.

Winemakers reflected on a host of new issues being experienced in the past decade, from early budbreak to the implications of warmer nights on cool Chardonnay. They discussed how they deployed mitigation efforts such as geotextiles to manage the extreme swings and challenges to create outstanding vintages and shape the future of world-class Chardonnay.

A man and a woman stand behind a table that holds various flyers and a tub holding wine bottles. Both are wearing red shirts.

Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute Manager of Professional Studies and Outreach Barbara Tatarnic (right) and Oenology and Viticulture student Sean Maguire walked attendees through a structured tasting during the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration Friday Night Flights event on Friday, July 19.

The first of the afternoon sessions, Bubbles on the Rise, was moderated by Sommelier and CCOVI Wine and Spirits Education Trust instructor Peter Rod, who explored the legendary adaptability of Chardonnay and how each producer puts their own spin on traditional styles.

Audience members were treated to a flight of eight sparkling Chardonnays and challenged by Rod to determine which met specific criteria, such as being made in Ontario and aged for seven years.

Across each session, panellists discussed altitude, sun exposure, temperature fluctuations, soil composition, proximity to large bodies of water and climate change as sources of influence upon their products.

For the final tasting flight and panel of the day, “Chardonnay Unbound,” Neumann returned to moderate while joined on stage by numerous Brock and Oenology and Viticulture (OEVI) graduates turned winemakers.

The panel explored eight diverse expressions of Chardonnay, from the crisp to the opulent and buttery, and held a lengthy discussion of mineral-driven flavours.

Dean Stoyka of Stratus Vineyards made a point to thank an ice sheet 12,000 years ago for depositing shale in the vineyards of Niagara that could be tasted in each sip of Chardonnay.

The School of Cool concluded with a round of applause to the winemakers, panellists and moderators who came from around the world to participate and share their cool climate Chardonnays as part of the celebration.

While School of Cool wrapped on Thursday, CCOVI continued its outreach mission of knowledge mobilization and community engagement during i4C’s Friday Night Flights event at Cherry Lane Farm.

Barb Tatarnic, Outreach Manager, joined CCOVI staff members and OEVI students in greeting guests with the simple question, “What Kind of Cool Are You?”

“The unique sensory tasting experience is designed to help guests discover their own Chardonnay profile and preference,” said Tatarnic. “We poured four different styles of cool climate Chardonnay, so guests could find their favourite style: crisp, fruity, rich or smooth.”

Once guests uncovered their preferred style, it helped them to navigate through the cool climate Chardonnays from regions around the world available at the tasting and gave them a better understanding of their own palates.

“It was a very cool self-discovery ‘ah-ha’ moment for most of our guests that helps drive their buying practices moving forward,” Tatarnic said.

To learn more about the annual i4C celebration, visit coolchardonnay.org. For more information on industry research, outreach and educational opportunities in grape and wine science, please visit brocku.ca/CCOVI


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